Guitar Building
For those of you who are interested in the fine art of guitar building, I thought I would give you broad overview as to the steps that are needed to make a fine stringed instrument such as a classical or acoustic guitar.
Guitar Wood:
Tonewood is the term that is used to define woods used for guitar building. Softwoods are commonly used for guitar tops. Commonly used woods used are Spruce and Cedar, and every now and then hardwoods such as Koa and Mahogany are used.
Backs and sides are constructed of hardwoods. Volume and tone characteristics can be shaped by the species of hardwood used in the guitar back and sides. Hardwoods such as Walnut, Mahogany and Maple will provide tones that are warmer. If you are after brighter tone and more volume, such woods as Rosewood, Ebony, and Koa would be a better option.
Also, if you vary the thickness of the guitar top, that is another method of controlling tone, balance, and intensity of your guitar. Thinner plates (tops and backs), typically develop louder guitars.
Tonewood can also include the guitar bracing that is used to structurally support the thin guitar top. These braces are generally the same species wood as the top wood. By shaping the top bracing in special configurations, you can shape the guitar tone and balance as well.
Tools and Jigs Used for Guitar Building:
Typically guitar building requires an extreme amount of precision that will govern the end result of a great sounding and playing instrument. It is very useful for the guitar luthier to precisely perform many operations and be able to repeat these operations consistently. This can be achieved by the use of Specialized Jigs and Forms. Some of the specialized jigs to consider:
For those of you who are interested in the fine art of guitar building, I thought I would give you broad overview as to the steps that are needed to make a fine stringed instrument such as a classical or acoustic guitar.
Guitar Wood:
Tonewood is the term that is used to define woods used for guitar building. Softwoods are commonly used for guitar tops. Commonly used woods used are Spruce and Cedar, and every now and then hardwoods such as Koa and Mahogany are used.
Backs and sides are constructed of hardwoods. Volume and tone characteristics can be shaped by the species of hardwood used in the guitar back and sides. Hardwoods such as Walnut, Mahogany and Maple will provide tones that are warmer. If you are after brighter tone and more volume, such woods as Rosewood, Ebony, and Koa would be a better option.
Also, if you vary the thickness of the guitar top, that is another method of controlling tone, balance, and intensity of your guitar. Thinner plates (tops and backs), typically develop louder guitars.
Tonewood can also include the guitar bracing that is used to structurally support the thin guitar top. These braces are generally the same species wood as the top wood. By shaping the top bracing in special configurations, you can shape the guitar tone and balance as well.
Tools and Jigs Used for Guitar Building:
Typically guitar building requires an extreme amount of precision that will govern the end result of a great sounding and playing instrument. It is very useful for the guitar luthier to precisely perform many operations and be able to repeat these operations consistently. This can be achieved by the use of Specialized Jigs and Forms. Some of the specialized jigs to consider:
- Guitar Plate Joiner
- Go Board Gluing Jig
- Fret Slot Cutting Jig
- Inside Guitar Form
- Guitar Work Board
- Heated Side Bender.
Woodworking Tools Required:
Before you start guitar building operations, you will need a basic set of hand tools. It is important to note that the better quality tools you purchase, the better they will cut and hold and edge. Also they are safer to use.
Before you start guitar building operations, you will need a basic set of hand tools. It is important to note that the better quality tools you purchase, the better they will cut and hold and edge. Also they are safer to use.
- Orbital Sander
- Hand Scrapers
- Dremel Moto Tool and Attachments
- Japanese Pull Saws
- Wood Chisel Set
- Low Angle Brass Block Plane
- Violin Finger Planes
- Fret Saws
- Dovetail Saw
- Plastic Tipped Hammer.
Guitar Building Stationary Tools:
Stationary tools can save a tremendous amount of time. Here are some of the basic stationary tools you ought to examine.
Stationary tools can save a tremendous amount of time. Here are some of the basic stationary tools you ought to examine.
- 12" Band Saw
- 6" x 48" Stationary Belt Sander
- Drill Press
Workshop for Guitar Building:
Not only do you need fundamental workbench space, you need space for glue-up and assembly of guitar parts. also have adequate lighting to do your close work. Natural lighting is also very beneficial for many tasks.
Guitar Building Plans:
Purchase a outstanding set of guitar plans to reinforce the quality of your project. Your plans will need to be full scale. Ultimate Guitar constructing has a wide variety of outstanding full-sized guitar plans.
Assembly of the Neck:
First rip the neck blank wood in half. Assemble so the grain is opposed and glue the halves together. Sand the blank, cut the scarf joint, prepare the scarf joint and glue this joint. Cut in truss rod channel and install truss rod.
Not only do you need fundamental workbench space, you need space for glue-up and assembly of guitar parts. also have adequate lighting to do your close work. Natural lighting is also very beneficial for many tasks.
Guitar Building Plans:
Purchase a outstanding set of guitar plans to reinforce the quality of your project. Your plans will need to be full scale. Ultimate Guitar constructing has a wide variety of outstanding full-sized guitar plans.
Assembly of the Neck:
First rip the neck blank wood in half. Assemble so the grain is opposed and glue the halves together. Sand the blank, cut the scarf joint, prepare the scarf joint and glue this joint. Cut in truss rod channel and install truss rod.
Glue the stacked heel blocks in position. After they are dry, rough shape the heel, neck and headpiece. Cut out the headpiece laminate and glue on the guitar head. Next prepare the neck/head block joint. This precision joint can be either a mortise and tenon joint or a dovetail joint.
Drill the holes for the tuning machines next. Before cutting the fret slots, shape the fretboard to the correct width, length and thickness.
The Back, Sides and Top:
Cut the side, back and top plates to proper thickness. As a starting point you can cut the plates to a thickness of 1/8" for steel string guitars and 3/32" for classical guitars. To thin the guitar backs, sides and top, you can use a wide variety of techniques from hand held jack planes, stationary planers, stationary belt sanders, hand held scrapers and drum sanders.
Use a plate jointing jig to glue the top and back plates together. Cut the top and back bracing to size and glue into place using the go-board gluing jig. Let braces dry and then final shape the bracing and finish sand them. Cut the rosette channels in the guitar top. Glue the rosette into place and cut out the soundhole. Glue in the reinforcing for the soundhole.
Use a heated side bender to bend the guitar sides. You should keep the side in the bender for a couple of days. Next locate them in the within mold and trim to length. Glue the head and tail blocks into position. Next fabricate the kerfings and glue the kerfing into place around the top and bottom edges of the sides. Carefully fit the guitar top and back to the sides. Cut braces into the kerfing.
Using 1" elastic upholstery tape, glue the top to the top of the kerfing on the guitar sides. In a similar manner, glue the back to the kerfing and sides. Take the Dremel router with the binding cutter attachment and set it to the appropriate depth and width for your bindings and purfling. Cut the channel for the peghead binding as well.
Drill the holes for the tuning machines next. Before cutting the fret slots, shape the fretboard to the correct width, length and thickness.
The Back, Sides and Top:
Cut the side, back and top plates to proper thickness. As a starting point you can cut the plates to a thickness of 1/8" for steel string guitars and 3/32" for classical guitars. To thin the guitar backs, sides and top, you can use a wide variety of techniques from hand held jack planes, stationary planers, stationary belt sanders, hand held scrapers and drum sanders.
Use a plate jointing jig to glue the top and back plates together. Cut the top and back bracing to size and glue into place using the go-board gluing jig. Let braces dry and then final shape the bracing and finish sand them. Cut the rosette channels in the guitar top. Glue the rosette into place and cut out the soundhole. Glue in the reinforcing for the soundhole.
Use a heated side bender to bend the guitar sides. You should keep the side in the bender for a couple of days. Next locate them in the within mold and trim to length. Glue the head and tail blocks into position. Next fabricate the kerfings and glue the kerfing into place around the top and bottom edges of the sides. Carefully fit the guitar top and back to the sides. Cut braces into the kerfing.
Using 1" elastic upholstery tape, glue the top to the top of the kerfing on the guitar sides. In a similar manner, glue the back to the kerfing and sides. Take the Dremel router with the binding cutter attachment and set it to the appropriate depth and width for your bindings and purfling. Cut the channel for the peghead binding as well.
The Bindings:
Purchase or fabricate purfling and bindings. If you intend to use wood binding you will have to pre-bend them on the Heated Side Bender. Glue into place using 1" upholstery tape.
How to Fit the Neck:
Take care to carefully align the neck to the body of the guitar. When satisfied, glue neck to guitar body and head block. Skip the gluing if you are using a bolt on neck. Glue fretboard onto neck and guitar top. If using a bolt on neck, do not glue to guitar top. Finish shaping the guitar neck and the guitar heel with wood rasps and sandpaper. Install the frets and dress them.
Applying the Guitar Finish:
Start by finish sanding the entire guitar with 120 and 220 grit sandpaper. If necessary use a hand scraper to clean up the rosette, bindings and purfling. It is necessary to keep the finish material from beneath the bridge area. place masking tape on the guitar top to prevent this.
Apply several coats of vinyl sealer. Allow sealer to dry before sanding smooth. Apply a toned paste wood filler and let that dry. Clean the wood filler and spray the finish lacquer. Depending on the quality of your wood pore filling, it will take between 6 and 10 coats of lacquer with sanding between every 2 coats.
Next you will need patience and let the guitar stand for at least one week. Do a final sanding with silicone carbide paper and buff to a mirror finish.
Final Detail Items:
You now have to glue the guitar bridge into its location. Upon drying, rout the saddle channel with the channel routing jig tool. Make and install the saddle and the nut. Assemble the tuning machines on the guitar peghead. String up guitar and test. Make any final adjustment that may be necessary.
We have hundreds of guitar constructing articles available at Ultimate Guitar Building. Guitar construction is covered in fantastic detail, every step of the way. Best of all? The articles are all free for your use.
Purchase or fabricate purfling and bindings. If you intend to use wood binding you will have to pre-bend them on the Heated Side Bender. Glue into place using 1" upholstery tape.
How to Fit the Neck:
Take care to carefully align the neck to the body of the guitar. When satisfied, glue neck to guitar body and head block. Skip the gluing if you are using a bolt on neck. Glue fretboard onto neck and guitar top. If using a bolt on neck, do not glue to guitar top. Finish shaping the guitar neck and the guitar heel with wood rasps and sandpaper. Install the frets and dress them.
Applying the Guitar Finish:
Start by finish sanding the entire guitar with 120 and 220 grit sandpaper. If necessary use a hand scraper to clean up the rosette, bindings and purfling. It is necessary to keep the finish material from beneath the bridge area. place masking tape on the guitar top to prevent this.
Apply several coats of vinyl sealer. Allow sealer to dry before sanding smooth. Apply a toned paste wood filler and let that dry. Clean the wood filler and spray the finish lacquer. Depending on the quality of your wood pore filling, it will take between 6 and 10 coats of lacquer with sanding between every 2 coats.
Next you will need patience and let the guitar stand for at least one week. Do a final sanding with silicone carbide paper and buff to a mirror finish.
Final Detail Items:
You now have to glue the guitar bridge into its location. Upon drying, rout the saddle channel with the channel routing jig tool. Make and install the saddle and the nut. Assemble the tuning machines on the guitar peghead. String up guitar and test. Make any final adjustment that may be necessary.
We have hundreds of guitar constructing articles available at Ultimate Guitar Building. Guitar construction is covered in fantastic detail, every step of the way. Best of all? The articles are all free for your use.
